Garment



April 25, 1950 L. R. SPARE 2,505,219

GARMENT Filed oct. 8, 1948" Y 2 Sneaks-Sheet 1 LoLA RSPARE BY HER nrromviva.

Hf) RR/s, K/ECH, P05 76/? & HARRIS April 25,1950 L. R. SPARE 2,505,219

' GARMENT Filed Oct. 8, 1948 ZShBetS-Sheet 2 lNl/ENTOR. LOLA AJPA/as BY HER, flTTOkNEKS.

Patented Apr. 25, 1950 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 3 Claims. (Cl. 2224) This invention relates to improvements in articles of apparel and particularly to garments of the trousers or pants types adapted for either under or outer wear. In the following specification the invention is described in connection with articles of apparel of the short pants type, commonly referred to as shorts or trunks, by way of example, but the invention is not to be construed as limited in this respect since, as will become apparent, the improvements may be embodied in garments of other types, such as pants, pajamas, etc. having long leg portions.

Garments of the shorts or trunks type are worn extensively for both under and outer wear, the popularity of such garments being attributed largely to the fact that they provide great freedom of movement of the legs and thus afford a certain degree of comfort for the wearer. It has been determined, however, that such articles of apparel are incapable of stretching in all directions and thus do not readily conform to the contour of the trunk portion of the wearer. For this reason, garments of the conventional pants type produce considerable discomfort to the wearer and, due to the lack of resiliency or stretchability, the fabric of the garments is quite apt to tear, particularly adjacent the seams. This is especially true with regard to the crotch portion of such a garment, it being pointed out that due to lack of fullness and resiliency at the crotch of the garment, an uncomfortable binding action is caused, particularly when the garment is worn by a male person.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an article of apparel of the pants type which is capable of stretching in various directions so that portions of the garment can elongate with respect to other portions thereof, the result being to produce maximum comfort for the wearer by allowing the garment to follow the contour of the trunk of the wearer and permit yielding of the fabric without subjecting the same to unduestrain which might otherwise result in tearing of the fabric or opening of the seams of the garment, particularly adjacent the fly front opening.

Another object of the invention is to provide a garment, of the character referred to, which isso constructed that fullness is provided at the crotch portion, which is also capable of flexing in all directions to effect .utmost freedom of movement and comfort to the wearer.

Another object is to provide a garment, of the character discussed above, in which all or certain of itsportions are cut on the bias of the textile material from which the garment is con-- structed so as to provide the greatest possible stretch in all directions.

Another object is to provide a garment of the type indicated which is composed of a minimum number of components which can be readily joined to construct the article, the crotch portion being formed partly on two of the com ponents, the joining of the two components acting to flare the crotch portion to provide fullness and the material of the crotch portion being maintained on the bias of the material so as to permit stretching of the material in all direc tions.

Another object is to provide a garment of the character specified which has a front portion composed of a pair of panels, cut on the bias of the textile fabric, the panels bein formed with extensions which, when joined, cooperate in providing the entire crotch portion of the garment,

the biased crotch portion extending rearwardly and forming the lower extremity of the back portion of the garment, said back portion comprising a pair of panels each cut either on the bias or on the straight run of the fabric. By this construction, the panels of the front and back portions are joined in vertical front, back and side seams and the transverse line of joinder between these portions occurs at the back of the garment, in-

stead of at the center of the crotch portion, as is the case in conventional garments of the various sewed together in front and back seams. By this construction, the garment is devoid of vertical side seams and the fabrication of the garment is greatly simplified and its cost of production is correspondingly reduced.

Another object is to provide a garment, of the character referred to, which has a waistband capable of following the contour of the midportion of the wearer, the back section of the waistband being preferably curved at the top to accomplish the desired result.

A further object is to provide a garment of the pants type which is capable of being modified,

in various respects to adapt it for either under or outer wear, and one which may be provided with short, medium and long leg portions to adapt it for use as trousers, pajamas, swim and sports trunks, etc., for use by either male or female wearers.

It is a still further object of this invention to provide a garment of the pants type having front panels cut to present a bias edge at a vertical front seam and throughout a substantial portion of a crotch seam whereby to permit free vertical stretching of thegarment along -:thefront seam and wherein the material presents a non-bias edge to that portion of a front seam adjacent the juncture of the front and crotch seams.

Further objects of the invention will appear from the specification and from the-drawings, which are intended for the purpose of illustration, and in which:

Fig. '1 is a front view of a garment of the socalled shorts type constructed in accordance with my invention;

Fig. 2 is-a back viewof thesame;

Fig. 3 is a side view of the same;

--Fig. 4 is an. expanded view of the garment, shown prior to sewing the front and back portions together;

Fig. 5 is a development of one of the front panels of the garment shown in Figs. 1 to'3;

'Fig. 6'isafront view of a garment of modified construction;

Fig. '7 is a 'compositedevelopment of the two main components -of the garment illustrated in Fig.6;

Fig. 8 is a front view of a garment of further alternative construction;

Fig. 9 is --a front view of a garmentof still further modified form; and

Fig. 10is a back view of the garment shown inFig. '9.

*Referringto'Figs. l to 5 of the drawings in detail, my improved garment of the pants type may-:takethe form of a pair of shorts adapted for either under or outer-wear. The shorts l5 comprise a front pcrtion "Hi and a back portion I1, theseportions being 'made from textile fabric cut'differently asregards the weave of the fabric. The front-portion I6 is composed of a pair of front panels-l8 and-l9 of identical shape but of opposite hand as regards the outer surface of the textilamaterial from which they are cut.

Each-panel 1'8 and i9-consists of a-main, substantially rectangular, sheet 29 having a top edge 21, -a bottom edge 22' and substantially vertical side edges'23 and 24. Atone of itslower corners, each panel It and I9 is provided with a pointed tabor exte'nsionZS, the extension having a lower, slightly curved, edge 26 which forms a continuation of thebottom'edge 22, an inclined edge 2'! and a curved edge 2-8 which blends into the vertical edge 23. It is to be particularly noted that the panels I8 and #9 are cut from textile fabric ,pnthe bias "thereof, as indicated by the diagonal lines-in'the various views.

The two panels 18 and is are assembled to provide --the front portion 16 by iirst bending or foldingtheir pointed tabs '25 to the approximate position indicated by broken lines in 'Fig. 5, and-thereafter sewing their adjoining'edges -23 and-'28 together in a seam 30 (Figs. '1 and 4). During the joining of the-panels l8 and E9 in this manner,--a-part-of the abutting vertical edges may be left unsewed to provide a fly opening 3 I. It will be observed by reference to'Fig. 4, that when the panels i8 and I9 are vjoined in this manner, the inclined edges 21 of the tabs 25 align and extend at right angles to the seam 30 in an edge 32. It is to be also noted that the tabs 25 together provide a crotch portion 33 and, due to the bending of the tabs during the seaming of the panels, the crotch portion is flared to a slight extent to provide fullness thereof. In addition, since the crotch portion, composed of the two tabs 25, is cut on the bias of the fabric, it is capable of stretching in all directions.

The back panel I? is composed of two similar panels 35.:and 36 which. are substantially rectangular in shape and which have slightly inclined inner edges 31, and vertical outer edges 38, a substantially straight bottom edge 39 and a curved upper edge 4!]. The corresponding vertical edges 3'! of these panels are sewed together in a center seam H which, as shown in Fig. 3,

slopesinwardly toward the crotch portion. The bottom edges 39 are similarly joined to the edge 32 and in this manner, the four panels l8, I9, 35 andSB are assembled as best shown in Fig. 4, thelower edges of the front and back panels defining a pair of leg openings 4!. The upper edges of the front portion i6 are preferably provided with strips 42 and 43 which form waistband sections, these sections being preferably detachably secured at their inner ends by snap fasteners 4401" other fastening-means. The back portion i'lis also'providedwith awaistband section 45. The front and back portions 16 and H are folded, one-upon the other, at the crotch portion 33 and their corresponding side edges 24 and 38 are sewed togetherin sidesea'ms 46 (Fig. 3'), these seams being discontinuousadjacent'the top of the garment to-facilitate placing the garment on the trunk of the wearer. The outer ends of the waistband sections 42, 4'3 and Marc provided with cooperating snap fastener means ltfor adjusting the girth of the garment to the waist measurement of the wearerso as toobtain a snug, yet comfortable fit. 'In accordance with my invention, the top edge of the back waistband section 45 ispreferably curved-so as to-a dapt it to conform to the curvature of the wearers back to provide a comfortable' fit and avoid downward slipping or riding up or wrinklin 0f the garment. As previously pointed out, the fabric of theiront portion l 6, including the crotch portion 33, is cut on the bias to-provide maximum flexing and stretching in all directions. The back portion H, on'the other hand, may becut either on the straight run or on the bias of the fabric. The waistband strips 42, 83 and 45 are preferably cut on the straight run of the fabric soas to avoid excessive stretching. In order to effect a form'fit of the garment, the frontandback panels l6 and limay be provided with darts 49.

it will be apparent from the above that the garment l5-may be readily donned by first unfastening the snap fasteners 44, after which it can be slid onto the trunk of the body of the wearer, the legs of the wearer being inserted through the openings 4|. Prior to or after the garment is in position, the snap fastener means 58 may be adjusted to provide --a comfortable fit of -the waistband aroundthe waist of the wearer.

It has been determined that a garment co-1r structedin aecordance'with the'present invention is especially comfortable to Wear and this fact may be attributed to several factors. "In the first place, by cutting the front panels on the bias of the fabric, the garment followsmore closely the contour of the wearers-trunk and is capable of stretchingin several directions sothat greater freedom of movement ls=afforded. Moreever, since the garment can readily stretch; strains imposed on the garment are distributed over a wide area and thus tearing of the fabric and possible pulling away at the seams, especially immediately below the front fly opening, is avoided. Thus, the improved garment will last over a much longer period than conventional garments of this general character. Furthermore, the crotch portion of the garment is also made on the bias of the fabric and, due to its ease or fullness, permits greater freedom of movement of the wearers body without straining the crotch seam, it being noted that by my improved construction only a single, central, seam 30is employed at the crotch, the transverse seam 32 being disposed rearwardly and upwardly from the crotch so that undue binding action, which might result in discomfort to the wearer, is entirely avoided. Such a feature is of utmost importance when considered in connection with a garment of the pants type for use by male persons. As an added feature of improvement, the waistband can be curved as disclosed herein so as to adapt it to conform more closely to the contour of the wearers back and thus add to the comfort of the wearer. As another important feature of my invention, it will be readily apparent that the parts of the improved garment can be cut and assembled with greater facility and the garment thus made at a comparatively low cost.

Referring now to Figs. 6 and '7 of the drawings, my invention further contemplates the provision of a garment of the pants type which is constructed in a manner somewhat different than the garment [5 previously disclosed. The garment 50, illustrated in Figs. 6 and 7 is composed of a pair of elements 5| and 52 which are quite similar in shape. Each element 5| and 52 consists of a sheet of textile fabric cut to substantially rectangular shape and having a top edge 53, a bottom edge 54, a straight vertical edge 55 and a sloping slightly curved vertical edge 56. Adjacent the lower end of the vertical edge 55 is a projection 51 and at the lower end of the edge 56 is a diagonally projecting extension or .tab 58. Both elements 5| and 52 are cut on the bias of the fabric as indicated by the diagonal lines in Figs. 6 and '7.

To assemble the two elements 5| and 52 to form the garment 50, the curved edges 56 and the edges 59 of the tabs 58 are sewed together in a combined back and crotch seam 60, the material of the tabs being flared slightly by this procedure. The corresponding edges 55 and the edges 6| of the projections 51 of the elements are then sewed together in a combined front and crotch seam 62 so that a continuous seam extends from the upper edge of the back portion of the garment, downwardly through the crotch portion and upwardly along the front portion thereof, this seam being interupted at the upper part of the front portion to provide a fly opening 65 which is normally closed by an overlying flap 66 formed integrally with the element 52 at the edge 55 thereof. It is thus seen that the garment 50 is made from only two elements which require a minimum of sewing to assemble them. Each element 5! and 52 provides one half the front and back portions and one side of the garment and when the elements are joined as :above explained, their lower edges and cooperating crotch portions define a pair of leg openings 61. It is thus seen that the construction is greatly simplified and the fabrication of the garment is expedited and substantially reduced in cost. As in the embodiment illustrated in Figs. 1 to 5, the garment 50 is provided with a waistband 68 which may, if desired, be made in one piece and normally held closed at the front portion of the garment by snap fasteners 69. By this modified construction, all the advantages derived through the use of the previously described garment are also obtained. In addition, the fabric of the entire garment 50 is cut on the bias so that maximum stretchability of the garment and fullness at the crotch portion are attained. It is within the concept of this invention to extend the length of the elements 5| and 52 in elongated rectangular sections, the vertical edges of which are adapted to be sewed together to provide tubular leg portions (not shown).

The alternative garment 10, shown in Fig. 8, differs from the garment 50 only as regards the waistband, which as shown in this embodiment is a conventional elastic waistband, such a garment being commonly referred to as one of the boxer type.

The garment 15 illustrated in Figs. 9 and 10 is of the type commonly employed by women or children for sports wear. The garment T5 is similar in construction to that shown in Fig. 6 except that its waist portion is adapted to be contracted by means of a divided belt 16, the ends of which may or may not, as desired, cross in the back of the garment and tie or fasten in the front. To facilitate application to and removal of the garment from the person, a slide fastener 78 is provided at the back of the garment for opening and closing the top of the garment.

As clearly shown in Figs. 5 and 7, illustrating the different species of the device, the edge of the material at 23 and 55 respectively is cut on the true bias and also presents a true bias edge along the upper edge 28 of the tab 25 and the upper edge of tab 51 respectively. However, at substantially the juncture of the edges 23 and 55 and the upper edges of the extensions or tabs 25 and 51 respectively, a very short length of the edge of the material is not cut on a true bias but presents an edge out on the straight of the material substantially at the point defining the juncture between the top edges of the extensions and the front edges 23 or 55. By this construction a true bias edge is presented to the major portion of the front and crotch seams and to a greater portion thereof than would be presented if the material of the front panels were not cut on a true bias along these lines.

While I have herein shown and described the improved article of apparel as embodied in several preferred forms of construction, it will be apparent that further modifications might be made in the construction and method of making the garment without departing from the spirit of the invention. Consequently, I do not wish to be limited in this respect, but desire to be afforded the full scope of the appended claims.

I claim as my invention:

1. A fabric garment of the pants type having a front and a back portion, at least said front portion being formed of panels meeting along a vertical central seam at the front of the garment, said panels having angular extensions joined along said seam and defining at least part of a connecting crotch portion, the weave of the fabric of said front panels being so angularly related to said front seam and said angular extensions as to present a bias-cut edge at said seam throughout the front vertical portion of said 7 garment and substantially all of said {angular extensions, theweave-of said fabric extending perpendicular to said seam substantially at the juncture of said frontiportionand said crotch portion, the'edges-of sa-idpanels at said seam being free to stretch ina direction along said seam.

-2. A fabric :garmentof the pants type having a front and a backaportion, at least said front portion being formed of panels-meeting along'a verticalcentralseam at the front of the garment, said panels having angular extensions joined along saidseam and defining at least-part of a connecting crotchportion, the weave of the fabric of said front panels being so angularly related to said front seam and *said angular extensions as to present a bias-cut edge at said seam throughout the front vertical portion of said garment and substantially all of said angular extensions, the weave of said fabric extending perpendicular to said seamsubstantially at the juncture of said front portion and said crotch portion, the edges of said panels at said seam being free to'stretch in a-direction along said seam, the uppermost'edge of said back portion being curved to define an upwardly concave waist band.

-3. A fabric gar-mentof the'pants type having a front and a back portion, at least said front portion being iOImBdOf panels meeting along a vertical central seam at the-front of the gar- 8 nient, said :panels having. angular extensions joined along said seam and defining I at least .part of a connectin'g crotch portion, theweave of'the fabric of said rrontipanels being so angularly related to said"front 'seam and said angular extensions as to present a bias-cut edge at said seam throughout the front vertical portion of said garment and substantially all of said angular extensions, the weave of said fabric extending perpendicular to said seam substantially at'the juncture of said 'front portion and said crotch portion, the edges .ofsaid panels "at said seam being free to stretch in a direction along said seam, said crotch portion consisting entirely of said-extensions'an'd joined to'the said back portion-along a substantially horizontal seam extendingacross the-bottom'of "said back portion.

LOLA R. SPARE.

REFERENCES CITED The following referencesa're of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date Re. 16,282 Lesson Mar. 9, 1926 2,084,837 Curcio- June 22, 193"! 2,348,242 Bullinger May 9, 1944 2,365,865 Messing Jan. 9, 1945 2,449,873 Brockman Sept. 21, 1948 

